VISITING THE BALTIC COAST

Poland isn't exactly a beach destination.

Least of all, in the winter. And yet, gazing at the calm Baltic Sea lapping up the wide, sugary and entirely empty sands of Stilo Beach in the country's north on a February afternoon, I wondered how this majestic, serene piece of natural beauty could have escaped the international spotlight.

Having lived in Poland for a few months, I've learned that self-promotion is not this country's strength. Poles are hard-working, entrepreneurial and very proud of their battered phoenix of a country, but little of that translates into boosting its virtually unknown image abroad. Try researching Pomerania–the region where Stilo, Poland's most beautiful beach, is located–and you won't find much information for foreigners. But even locals aren't exactly crowding the Pomeranian seashore in the winter. Which is how we, my husband (and co-founder of our blog Mr. & Mrs. Go Far) and I, came to have this corner of the world to ourselves for a true getaway weekend.

 
 

Leaving the lighthouse behind us, we strolled through a couple of kilometers of fragrant sand dunes covered by dwarf pines and finally emerged onto Stilo Beach. Even though I was in a fur coat and gloves, its kilometers of perfect sand and clear water made me want to spread out a towel and tan.

We walked along the glistening sheets of ice that lined the empty shore. Though we were skate-less, we slid on them with our boots, giggling like small children. And then, as the setting winter sun began to give way to the rising moon, we were off to our very own crackling fireplace at Palac Ciekocinko for the last night of quiet Baltic luxury before our trip back to Warsaw.

Liz Rafferty